Friday, August 5, 2011

Sardinia, oh Sardinia Part II

After the last post, i realized that I only talked about food and nothing else.

But hey, you guys should know me by now!! and so do I... about myself.


Today, however, I will show you SOME other things about Sardinia, IN ADDITION TO food stuff.
Sorry, can't get away with it.

BUT I KNOW YOU LIKE IT. I KNOW IT. ADMIT IT.

did I just hear roar of "YES"? great spirit kids!

Enough of chit chat now, here are the photos.


After the great experience at Stazzu, we fell in love with agriturismo in general.
But due to the lack of internet at that time (our agriturismo hotel did not have internet OR TV), we couldn't consult with our smartest friend, Mr. Google. So we had to resort to the old fashioned way of searching:  DRIVING AROUND. And one night we stumbled upon this place called: 

Su Barroccu
we were kiiiinnndd of hoping we could score some roasted pigs but they only offered sea food and fish menu that day. "ok why not," though uncertain, we just gave it a shot.

Appetizers: 
Top photo: potatoes with bottarga (cured fish roe of grey mullet, it's a delicacy!), marinated anchovies
Bottom photo: marinated octopus salad, flounder in spicy tomato sauce



Bottom: Pecorino cheese and anchovies wrapped in grilled eggplants

Those were the appetizers. They were very fresh and quite delicious, although I wasn't a big fan of the eggplant dish. Marinated anchovies were the bomb though. Mmmmmm..... 


First course: Fregole with sea food. Fregole is a type of pasta particular to Sardinia. It looks like lentils but has consistency of soft rice... MMMM DELISH


Another first course: Spaghetti with bottarga. It was simple but flavorful.


NOWW on to the second: this huge grilled fish 

At this point, we were pretty worried because we didn't ask the price in the beginning.
Being all dish fish and seafood, we thought it would be expensive but what the heck it was too late! We kept on eating... and eating...and eating


AND 4 huge grilled shrimps and small fried fish and squid. OMG our stomachs were about to burst at this point. There was one more second dish GRILLED SQUID but we kindly declined. 

The waitress that served us were so eager to feed us, I was skeptical that this place might charge us by plate and we panicked. OMG WE ATE TOO MUCH. but oh well, it was too late anyway.


After the whole course ended with fresh fruits, espresso, and digestive, we asked for the check. 
We were too full and fat to run fast enough to escape so we took the check like men.

The total??

30 euros each. WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wow, sardinia, I hail before thee. 

The next night we went back there to eat pizza, not the course. we need to let our stomachs rest once in a while you know. but again, we were faced with feast. 




Barroccu, you are another legend. 

Anyways!! I hope you enjoyed my post again with this food porn!! Hope you come back for my next.... OH WAIT, that's right, I promised that I will show other things about Sardegna. Got too excited.

Here are the photos.


The most fascinating part of Sardegna (aside from food) is the landscape I think.
Some people prefer the north east coast called Costa Smeralda since it is a popular vacation spot for rich and famous. It is indeed pretty there but also the rest of Sardegna, which is surrounded by mountain and abundant nature, is something you shouldn't miss. 



Old Spanish town Alghero. Very pretty.

Below is the Neptune's Cave. Discovered in 1400s but been there for millions of years... It was quite magnificent I might say. 


Spectacular interior of the cave
We had an idea of turning this place into a disco club but we thought neptune (greek god of sea by the way) will strike us dead if we do that so i guess not. booo.


random cows in the field. OH did I tell you that we bumped into a herd of sheep led by shepherd dog at NIGHT? it was like 12 o clock after coming back from dinner. It was like legit highway and these motherfu%#ing sheep are like "baaahhhh" in our faces. and after that there was a bull on the side of the road... we quickly drove away in fear of the bull charging us... what a great experience eh?



Agriturismo where we stayed for 4 nights. It was literally middle of NOWHERE. at night their sheep are like "baaahhh." 


Last but not least, the beautiful sea of Sardinia. just forever blue blue bluuuuuuuuuuuueeeeeeeeeeeeee. 
Unfortunately the weather wasn't so great when we were there but I recommend going to the beach if you visit there!!

Alright. Thanks for sticking with me through this lengthy narrative of my journey. I hope you enjoyed/ found it useful for when you have a chance to visit these places. 

What? I can do all that without your help since we have tripadvisor and google on hands??? 



True... 

Thanks anyway for reading!!

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Sardinia, oh Sardinia

WARNING: These photos and messages that entail may be disturbing to some viewers. 


Where to start....

Oh yes, Sardinia!!

that's right. You read my warning. And I did tell you that this trip was all about food: my greatest gastronomic journey yet.
So without fluff and chit chat, let's get down to business folks.

But WAIT!!!! if you are hungry, you may not be suited to view this post. Now is your time. Go grab some snacks quick!!!!






ok, ok. Let us begin the show....

Agriturismo Stazzu Li Paladini
 Everyone knows that the essence of traveling around Italy is to savor their cuisine, and Sardegna is no exception to that. In Sardegna, going to Agriturismo restaurants, (restaurants that are run by local farmers and such who offer particular dishes made from fresh ingredients) would be the best thing to do, if you are looking for an extraordinary gastronomic experience. We went to an Agriturismo called Stazzu near Palau, which we now refer to as "the legend."Anyway, you will have to drive to top of the mountain and wait til they open (at 8:30pm, yes dinner only). 

Piggiesss!!!! Do we eat them? You will see...



We arrived at 8pm so we will have to wait for half an hour. Meanwhile, the restaurant gave us couple glasses of free white wine. That's what I call "southern hospitality." Not quite the same as Ludacris' description but hey! it works for me! 


Finally, hungry as a pair of beasts, we sat down at the table and started devouring Pane Carasau.
It is something between tortilla chips and phyllo. It's thin and crunchy and you eat it like bread. It seems so light so you just forget how much you eat BUT!!! Be careful because you don't wanna be too filled up before the real meal.  Now with a litter of red wine, we are all pumped and ready for war.



Variety of cold cuts, including salumi, lardo and crudo and such. 


The further dish behind cold cuts  was cooked pork (i think) marinated in pickled cucumber, tomatoes, garlic, and onion. It was meaty and tangy at the same time. My favorite appetizers among all!


Roasted zucchini: I think the inside was taken out and mixed with some honey and cheese and then put back to its skin casing. It had natural sweetness similar to pumpkin. Mmmmm delish... 


Mazza Frissa; a traditional dish made of flour, honey and cream. It's definitely heavy but soo sooooo good. It was warm and sweet and fatty and so comforting. 


Polenta cooked with pancetta. Unlike liquid-y gooey polenta, these were cubed. It had also some sweetness but subtle enough to not taste like desert. 

NOW, these were only APPETIZERS. In the midst of devouring, we reminded ourselves that there are first courses AND second courses after these so we fought the urges to finish everything and left some room for our stomach. Nonetheless, everything was so delicious it was difficult to not clean up the plates. 


Now, top photo is ravioli stuffed with ricotta and honey with tomato sauce. It was so particular, as I never ate pasta that had sweetness. Honey is frequently used in Sardinian cuisine and I thought it was weird that savory dishes would have honey in it. But I stand corrected; it was AWESOME.

Below is gnochetti (small gnocchi-like pasta) with white ragu (meat sauce without tomatoes). Oh man it was so meaty and heavy and greasy and indeed heavenly.


Below was Zuppa Galluresi. Zuppa means "soup" in Italian so I was relieved for a few seconds thinking it would be a light dish. I was SO WRONG. This was the heaviest dish among all. Basically these are panfried cheese-ball-like-casserole with meat in it. Enough said. At this point, our stomachs were on the verge of exploding. 




Veggies ( i think fennel?) that helps you digest before you move on to second course. 


The main and famous dish; roasted pork. Remember the piggies in the photo? That's right. 
It might sound cruel to those who practice veganism and vegetarianism BUT I think this way, we could really appreciate the life that was sacrificed to feed us. Beside the meat, there was also homemade sausage.


NOW dessert: Seadas. We only got one dessert instead of TWO for each person. This is also particular dish from Sardinia. Dough stuffed with gooey Pecorino cheese and fried. You eat it with honey on top. Heavy? Absolutely. Delicious, OHHH YOU BET.


Two digestives: Red Mirto and white Mirto. Digestive that is very local to Sardinia region. It is made from the myrtle plant that grows in the region. It has herbal, almost tea-like aroma and is very sweet. Perfect ending for such hearty and filling meal... and of course, espresso afterwards. 

Thus was the ENTIRE meal, which we sat through for two and a half hours. 
Everything pretty much was home-made, home-grown and freshly cooked.

"Oh it must be expensive...being all organic and stuff..." you may wonder.
The whole package?



35 euros per person. 


Unfreakingbelievable.

We were stuffed til the next night. 

If you have a chance to visit Sardinia, please visit Stazzu.





Next post will be about another agriturismo that we visited! Stay tuned and be hungry!

Monday, August 1, 2011

Mmmmmm MYKONOS!!!! Part II

No, I didn't forget nor was I too lazy to write another post.

I didn't have internet for one week.
I freaking week without internet.

Why? Because I was in rural area in a great island called Sardinia.
And I will write about it obviously in next post,
because it was one of the most fascinating gastronomic trips I have ever taken.

Anyways, as I promised a week ago, I would like to further introduce the island of Mykonos from my point of view!! which makes this guide totally UNthorough as a travel guide. OH WELL!

So, in addition to renting a car and randomly driving around this rocky island, I highly recommend you to take a ferry and go to its neighbor island called Delos.

What's in Delos?

One of the most important archeological centers in Greece BABY!!!
Sounds geeky? Oh yes it is, you can bet your behind.

If you are familiar with Greek myth, Delos was a sacred place where Artemis and Apollo were born. 
Delos was once a center for trading and finance in Hellenistic and Roman periods.
Hence, all these ruins of ancient city remain still.
Now, after a long painful decline, no one resides in Delos island; in fact, all the tourists have to return to where they came from by 3 pm.

Mosaic in House of Dolphine

Looong looong way to get to the peak of Mount Kinthos....

Anyways, it was an interesting experience as you basically walk through the ancient city on foot. 
From the top of Kinthos, you can see how big this city once was. 
I highly recommend it for a day trip!



SOOOOO!! MOVING ON TO FOOD!!!!

What can I say, tis the most important topic.
I would like to warn you, however, the choices in Mykonos are pretty limited, 
since the island is an touristic site than anything else.

You can find pretty good food nontheless!!
Here are some dishes!

At Kounelas Fish Tavern

 I highly recommend this restaurant!!! 
They have mainly fish dishes, as the name suggests and they are fresh and delicious!
After you choose your appetizers (optional of course), you go downstairs and choose fresh fish to be grilled on the spot!! All the fish are in drawers... Interesting sight ain't it?

Fokos Taverna
They serve you fresh traditional Greek dishes. 
You have to drive to Fokos beach from main city to get to this taverna.
The photo is of lentil salad with feta, cucumber, tomatos and garlic.
They also grill fish for you on the spot but it is quite pricy compared to Kounelas.

And of course, how can we forget gyros.
It is the cheapest and the most filling meal if you are looking for wallet friendly food.
BUTTTT! I must warn you such things come with price: HEARTBURN.

There is an alternative though: crepes.
Somehow, the island has many creperies that make both sweet and savory crepes, big enough to fill you up for dinner.

Soooooo That's IT!!!!! Sorry for such an incomplete travel guide, from totally biased point of view. 
We did go to numbers other restaurants but didn't think that was great... unfortunately.
The bars are great too! As I told you in part I, nightlife is great in this island but we were too lazy and lame to go clubbing during our stay.

These two bars are our favorites though
Kastro 
(famous for being gay bar but we thought it was pretty family friendly too)
 very nice ocean view from windows!



Leonidas 
(chocolatier during the day and bar at night. 
If you are lucky they might give you free chocolate! Our favorite spot!)

Outside seatings only!

Well, I hope you guys enjoyed my lengthy and half-a$$ guide. Next post will be about gastronomic journey in rural Sardinia!! Stay tuned!